Get to Know Your Mother With a Walk Through Time

I didn’t think a Sunday afternoon stroll through one of Seattle’s more stately neighborhoods would tire me as much as it did. But traveling through time can be exhausting. Our group of eight walkers made it through 4.6 billion years in a little over two-and-a-half hours. Every step (if you have relatively long legs) represented nearly a million years. 

It was a venture in “Deep Time,” a way of viewing Earth from a sensory perspective. More than a class in geology (although the experience would fit into a science curriculum nicely), “Deep Time” allows us to experience Earth’s story from the ground up, including how and where we humans fit in. 

You can take a “Deep Time” walk on your own with help of a free app. Instead, our small group was led by Richard Hartung, an Earth advocate. We began our walk on the grounds of St. Mark’s Cathedral on Capitol Hill. Our pace leisurely, we stopped every few billion years while covering 4.6 kilometers (a little less than three miles).

Scientists generally agree that Earth began to take shape from a mass of gas and rocks revolving around a faint sun. A billion or so years later, a huge collision threw off enough debris to form the moon, the beginning of our seasons. Not until 3.8 billion years ago did life begin to emerge in the form of single cell organisms. If the thought of humans evolving from monkeys disturbs you, rest assured. It’s those single cells, said Richard, that were “our common ancestors.”

By the time we reached Lowell Elementary School at 11th and Mercer streets, almost an hour had passed, and it was 3.1 billion years ago. That, said Richard, was when those single cells began to come together in “community.” How perfect, I thought. Lowell school is all about community. Its progressive programs serve many children from unhoused families. Students come from families speaking thirty different languages.

Soon we entered Volunteer Park, reaching the halfway point. About 2.3 billion years ago, oxygen was beginning to move into Earth’s atmosphere, for which I was thankful. We’d climbed a slight grade which had me breathing a little more deeply. Things started happening at a faster pace: endosymbiosis, a couple ice ages, earth’s revolutions slowing down and the sun brightening. As we walked past Lake View Cemetery, where Bruce Lee is buried, insects began to emerge some 425 million years ago. The coal that is mined today began forming 360 million years ago.

Millions more years flew by as we strolled: volcanic eruptions, dinosaurs, continental drift, an asteroid hit the earth and killed off the dinosaurs. Two-and-a-half hours from our starting point, the glorious Rocky Mountains and Andes emerged. Twenty-three million years ago, primates arrived, and my knee — the one I fractured earlier in the summer — was beginning to ache, just a little.

To make an unfathomably long story ridiculously short, homo sapiens appeared on Earth at the very end of our walk, just 200,000 years ago, or about eight inches from our finish line.

When we talk about history, we tend to think of it as human history, notes David Abram, one of the developers of “Deep Time.” Our “real history,” he says, is the history of the land itself, Earth, with which we are “embedded, entangled.” 

Throughout the walk, Richard noted the various times when Earth heated and cooled in cycles that lasted for eons, causing devastation. My notes on that are fuzzy because his voice was often drowned out by planes overhead, en route to and from SeaTac International Airport, burning upwards of a dozen tons of fossil fuel per hour.

I recalled a friend who tried to calm my concerns about climate change. “Mary,” he said, “there’ve always been cycles of Earth cooling and warming.” True, Richard would reply. But the change we’re experiencing now is coming one hundred times faster than any in the past. His final question to our group was a challenge: “What do we do?” We sat quietly, mulling various strategies. 

I believe we must begin by caring about our relationship with Earth. When we care, we become more aware, we ponder our daily decisions, practices, and habits that impact Earth. Ancient Greek wisdom understood Earth to be Gaia, the mother of all life. Chief Seattle echoed that insight: “The earth is our mother. Whatever befalls the earth, befalls the sons of the earth. If men spit upon the ground, they spit upon themselves.”

We must learn to appreciate Earth as the mother who has generously nurtured us. As babies we are suckled, but now we have sucked our mother dry. She is old and very sick. It’s hard work to care for the old and the sick. It demands personal sacrifice. I’ve been there and learned  that caregiving is also a joy-filled opportunity to love. Now is the time to love Earth and all her inhabitants tenderly and deeply. She is, after all, our mother.

Leaf-Taking: It’s hard to let go

We were walking through downtown Seattle’s paradoxical Freeway Park. When you stroll among the park’s lush trees, flowering shrubs and patches of green grass, you’re actually on a lid covering a concrete parking lot and the hectic traffic of Interstate 5.

Two friends and I had just toured the collection of Northwest art at the Arch Convention Center. We were savoring the experience when one of my companions picked up a leaf that had been lying on top of a concrete barrier, as if someone or some spirit had carefully placed it there.

“Look at this!” she exclaimed. “How beautiful!”

Moments earlier we’d been engaging with larger-than-life abstract paintings representing scenes of the Northwest. Now here was nature’s own abstract: exquisitely colored patterns on a six-inch leaf. Nature imitating art imitating nature. 

The design reminded me of antique maps. When they were produced centuries ago, the maps were more products of speculation than settled geography. I recall standing in a British museum, staring at a supposed map of the world, drawn around 1100 CE. It was wildly different from global maps of today but suggested a planet I’d like to visit. Imagined continents were colored in nature’s hues and sharply outlined, surrounded by pale blue seas.

I held the leaf in the palm of my hand, and considered its rust-hued archipelago floating on a multi-shaded green sea. The islands were outlined in thick black, as if one of nature’s elves had laboriously drawn their ragged shorelines with a Sharpie.

Our other companion observed that if I wanted to keep the leaf, I’d have to coat it in wax. I couldn’t imagine struggling with melted wax in my compact kitchen. Maybe, I thought, I could laminate it. I shook my head at the irony. I’m earnestly trying to reduce my use of plastics, yet here I was, considering shrouding nature’s art in that toxic substance?! Yes, I’d like to keep the leaf, but … but … but

Oh, how we battle to not let go — until we have no choice. 

I was pretty sure it was a laurel leaf, but I checked it out with the “Picture This” app on my phone. The app informed me it’s a species of magnolias, also known as “Big laurel,” and declared an alarm in bright-red letters: THIS PLANT IS SICK!

I looked around at the grove of tall, graceful magnolias. I’m no arborist, but they appear healthy. New green foliage seems to be pushing the old brown leaves onto the ground. Or maybe the old leaves are voluntarily making space for the next generation. Are the beautiful images on the dying leaves a last-gasp aria?

As captives of a death-denying culture, it’s difficult for us to see any beauty in dying. Yet much great art through the centuries has depicted exactly that. J.S. Bach’s compelling chorale, “Komm, süsser Tod,” pleads: Come, sweet death, come, blessed rest! Come lead me to peace for I am weary of the world, O come! 

Even though I recently turned eighty, I’m not ready to embrace Bach’s sentiments just yet. I’m more in league with Robert Frost whose poem “Birches” celebrates his boyhood delight in swinging on tree branches, up, up towards heaven. But, he cautions, “May no fate willfully misunderstand me … and snatch me away/ Not to return. Earth’s the right place for love …”

At least for now. 

The colored leaf lay on my table for several days, a temporary totem. Then I gently, reverently put it to rest in the compost bin. Ashes to ashes, dust to dust.

Sure Signs

Just as the bull moose disappeared into the early evening shadows, my neighbor commented, “You’re not gonna be seeing this in Seattle.” 

A few minutes earlier, he’d phoned me and asked, “You lookin’ out your window?” I hadn’t been.

“There’s a moose walking down the middle of the river in your direction.”

This was a first. I’ve lived along the Okanogan River — a humble little tributary to the great Columbia — for forty years. I’ve seen an extraordinary variety of wildlife: eagles, osprey, all sorts of ducks, raucous Canada geese, beaver, river otters, great blue heron, fish jumping, sun-bathing humans on floating inflatables, and one time (I’m not making this up) a pelican. But never a moose.

I almost didn’t see this one. Despite my neighbor’s phone alert, I didn’t immediately spot the moose as he waded past my house. He was camouflaged in the reflection of trees that grow on the opposite river bank. Then, a few yards downriver, he suddenly came into view, backlighted by the last glimmer of twilight. If my neighbor hadn’t called, I would’ve thought it a mirage. 

Moose are, after all, larger than life. They can weigh up to sixteen hundred pounds and measure six feet from hoof to shoulder. At this time of year the Okanogan River is so shallow, this fellow had no trouble keeping his massive head and horns above water.

“I wonder where he’ll get out,” I said to my neighbor.

“Anywhere he wants,” was the reply.

Those fleeting moments — staring at a moose on his evening promenade — felt like a final gift from a river that has nurtured and inspired me through the years. At the end of the month I’ll move to the thirteenth floor of a high-rise in downtown Seattle with a view of city skyline. I don’t mean to be totally self-absorbed, as if the moose’s appearance were some kind of sign meant just for me. Still, I asked a Native American friend what it might’ve meant. His response was both practical and mystical. He said it’s time for the moose to migrate in order to thrive now and in the future. Conditions are always changing, and moose know when the time is right. Yes, it was a sign.

Signs have been coming my way for quite a while. At first they’re just little nudges, fleeting thoughts, offhand comments that somehow resonate. At some point, you begin to pay attention. You wonder where this is leading. Finally the signs become billboards in flashing neon. The direction is clear: time to follow a different path.

After the decision comes the checklist: 

  • Inform and try to explain the decision to family and friends (not to mention myself). Check.
  • Hold a gigantic moving sale that, with a lot of help from friends, was bigger and as much fun as any party I’ve ever hosted. Check.
  • “Stage” the house to make it look livable but not personal — like a hotel lobby. Check.
  • List the house for sale with all the necessary marketing tools, signs, photos, internet videos. Check.
  • Accept an offer on the house within an unbelievable twenty-four hours. Check.

Again, it’s evening. As I write,  I watch the rosy glow of sunset reflected on the river. No moose tonight but the ducks are staging an aerial show that never fails to take my breath away. Flying in perfect formation like Air Force Blue Angels, they land as a squadron with a singular splash.

Not long from now, when the river freezes over, the ducks will head to open water on the Columbia. Earlier today I heard the sandhill cranes overhead on their way south. 

The signs are always clear when it’s time to move on.

Flood waters: A week of flow going

The normally placid Okanogan River that flows past my home decided to exert its authority this week, egged on by its major tributary, the volatile Similkameen. What, I wonder, makes a tributary a tributary, especially when the supposedly junior partner runs amok?

We on the U.S. end of these two international rivers have not been as adversely impacted as our neighbors in British Columbia. I’ve not been impacted at all other than hypnotized while watching the urgent flow of forceful currents.

Ordinarily, especially at this time of year, the Okanogan is one of the slowest moving rivers in Washington state. Its source is a series of lakes in Canada. The southernmost, Lake Osoyoos, ushers the river into the United States, after which it drops a mere 125 feet along seventy-seven miles to the mighty Columbia. Contrast that to its raucous neighbor, the Methow, which drops 1,740 feet in its final fifty miles to the Columbia. 

White water rafters prefer the Methow during runoff in spring, while the Okanogan plays host on hot summer days to inner tubers who lazily drift, often towing a floatable cooler. My husband and I used to keep a small motor boat in the river during high water months, usually April into June. At that time of year, there was just enough current to create a wee bit of white water upriver. John delighted in taking grandchildren to experience what they dubbed the “wimpy rapids.”

Canada geese scramble for higher ground as the river inundates their small island

At this time of year, the most frequent river residents are mallards and Canada geese, serenely riding the slow current. Their tranquility was rudely interrupted this week when the river began to gradually rise from its normal five-foot level. Suddenly, in forty-eight hours’ time, it skyrocketed to 15.48 feet, officially a flood.

All of this at the insistence of the Similkameen, which joins the Okanogan some forty miles or so north of my home and contributes seventy-five percent of its flow. I’ve tried to determine if there’s some kind of standard for distinguishing between a tributary and main channel. The best Google could offer was that a tributary feeds into a larger river. 

Well. The Similkameen at 122 miles has a seven-mile edge over the Okanogan’s 115 total. At their confluence, the Similkameen clearly has the greater volume, turning the Okanogan’s clear, lake-fed water muddy brown. My husband called it “Similkameen silt.” Shouldn’t this river (and the valley it created) be named Similkameen?

It’s futile to suggest. Our tourist industry, which spends beaucoup dollars promoting “Okanogan Country,” probably wouldn’t want to rebrand. Their website goes so far as to dismiss the Similkameen as a “small, scenic river,” about four miles long. Which brings up the question of where does a river actually begin, but we’ll ponder that at another time.

At least we’ve managed to retain an indigenous name, or something close to it. Maps created by early fur traders in the 1800s tried to name the river Caledonia, but the British Empire lost out. Okanogan is an anglicized version of the native term. In his book “Late Frontier,” historian Bruce Wilson tracked down fifty ways newcomers tried to spell the word that they were hearing natives speak. Attempts ranged from “Cachenawga” to “Otchenaukane.” Even the U.S. and Canada can’t agree on its spelling. In Canada, it’s the same river and valley but spelled O-k-a-n-a-g-a-n.

Similkameen reportedly means “treacherous waters” — true enough when flooding. The translation of Okanogan is “rendezvous” or “meeting place.” Yeah, probably better for tourism. By week’s end, as flood waters recede, I’m just happy to go with the flow.